Inside the dining room at Gordon's on the River.

This elegant setting perched above Naples’ mangrove-shored Gordon River is truly the favored catbird seat for upscale diners—both seafaring and landlubbers alike.

During the season it's a welcome lush oasis to relax in, free from the crowds and noise at popular spots. It is set apart from other restaurants by Chef Andrew McLaughlin's culinary expertise.

Shrimp cocktail appetizers

I flipped over the large tender diver scallops topped with bits of crisp onions, wonderfully sauced tenderloin, and delicious rich venison with Madeira sauce and ostrich (tastes like steak, not chicken) with grain mustard-shallot sauce. Gordon’s luscious bread pudding is a dessert must!

A trio of featured desserts.

Sommelier Ian Ponsford has crafted a nicely priced, inviting wine list with popular labels and quite a few “finds.” The service is first rate. My friends would come back just for Paul, our evening’s server who is funny, knows a dish's ingredients as well as the chef, and is spot on in his recommendations.

Owner Jon Finstrom, left, with Sandy Stillwell, outgoing Mayor Bill Barnett and Mayor-elect John Sorey.

Owner Jon Finstrom has recreated the best part of old style dining clubs with Gordon’s delicious food, top service and a beautiful setting. Members and their guests enjoy the private club's ambiance and food. Membership is just $199 per year, plus meals. Do the math. Delicious food, elegant setting and a spot on the river in Naples—it's the real deal.

475 North Road, Naples, 213-1441, www.gordonsontheriver.com