Michael A Caronchi (© Michael Caronchi, Caronchi Photography)
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Matzo ball soup. Reubens. Latkes. Challah French toast. Kale salad, too. Talk to anyone in Naples, and it seems like they have a dish that draws them to the Stage Deli (formerly “Stage 62 Deli,” or just, “The Deli”).
A staple in Mercato since its early days now almost a decade ago, The Deli actually can trace its roots to Michigan in 1962. Owner Steve Goldberg’s parents started the original there, and he founded this one here.
A look behind the deli counter—oh, wait—there is no counter, and that’s the point: The family had the chutzpah to pair food found at the most casual of casual joints with table service. And now a soup-to-nuts makeover has pushed the idea even further. I’ve been a loyal patron for years, but when I walked in one evening near the end of season, I practically had to grip the back of one of the new white leather seats. The pictures of film stars were thankfully still there but hung gallery-style and offset by a palette of rich blues.
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Goldberg, who splits his time between here and his two locations outside Detroit, said at a party this week to officially introduce the renovation that his goal was to continue elevating the concept of a deli. He also said his Mercato chef “makes food that makes me want to kiss her!" (If you know a Jewish bubbe or have seen one on TV, that image reads warm and sweet.)
I have to admit, I seek out the Deli for the Mish Mash ($14, pictured). Served tableside in a stock pot with a ladle and bowls, it’s matzo ball soup on steroids starring big pieces of chicken, noodles, rice and kreplach, and it can easily feed a family of four. But after my visit this week where I nibbled half the menu, I may return for a toasty reuben—or a simple corned beef sandwich (from now until September that classic “Single on Stage Rye” is 50 percent off with the purchase of a “Hot Plate” or “Grill” entrée at dinner).
To plan a visit:
Stage Deli
9105 Strada Place, Naples
(239) 597-2800
Local deal: Naples residents get 15 percent off their bill from 6 p.m. to close each day.