uss nemo naples 25 year institution
Photography by Anna Nguyen

USS Nemo: Why Naples' 25-Year Seafood Institution Remains Unrivaled

After 25 years, this strip-mall standout remains a fine-dining essential—praised for its inventive seafood and unfailing hospitality.

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BEST DINING INSTITUTION 

On an evening at Naples’ USS Nemo, the hum of conversation rises and falls like the tide. The clink of glasses and occasional bursts of laughter carry across the dining room, where servers glide between tables, balancing plates of delicate sashimi and expertly broiled fish. Aromatic notes of brine, citrus and miso waft through the air behind the buttoned-up staff, as a couple toasts an anniversary in the corner booth and a group of friends at the bar debates ordering another round of foie gras-topped tuna Wellington. 

For 25 years, USS Nemo has been an unwavering outpost in Naples’ ever-evolving restaurant landscape, beloved for its impeccable seafood, warm hospitality and undeniable magic—virtues espoused again and again as we tapped our Community Advisory Board for their all-time favorite fine-dining institution. During a meeting, the cadre of local luminaries—including FineMark National Bank & Trust executive Adria Starkey, Artis—Naples CEO Kathleen van Bergen and acclaimed architect David Corban—delivered a chorus of endorsements for the enduring gem. “My husband and I made this an official date night when we started dating 25 years ago. The food has always been amazing,” Adria notes, speaking to the reliable excellence that keeps patrons hooked. 

Tucked into a strip mall along U.S. 41, USS Nemo makes quite a first impression with its unabashedly thematic decor—ocean-blue walls, faux portholes and submarine-inspired motifs. In an era when seafood restaurants increasingly favor minimalist aesthetics and neutral palettes, Nemo’s earnest maritime look feels charmingly retro. The surroundings also serve as a clear declaration of the restaurant’s singular focus: Here, seafood is king. 

After nearly 20 years at the helm, chef-owner Nicolas Mercier sold the restaurant in 2018 to longtime manager Stephane Plante and his wife, Sylvie Lafrance, who’ve retained much of the celebrated repertoire. The signature, miso-broiled sea bass (inspired by celebrity chef and restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa’s iconic preparation of cod) remains silky and moist, accented by a bright, citrus-ginger butter sauce. The dish has such a strong cult following that The New York Times once wrote it was reason enough to visit the city. 

Other specialties similarly layer flavors and global inspirations. Tuna is prepared Wellington-style, topped with a slab of foie gras and puff pastry to evoke the decadence of the special-occasion beef roast. Blackened salmon is rubbed with tandoori spices and served with yogurt-based raita, dill sauce and mango chutney. And in a dish that our editor-at-large Dorothea Hunter Sönne swears by, USS Nemo breaks the cardinal no-cheese-with-seafood rule, pairing grilled tuna with rounds of warm goat cheese, lobster risotto and balsamic vinegar. “Even though [the restaurant] feels like something comfortable that hasn’t changed much over the years, the way they prepare fish is exciting and inventive,” the longtime food writer says, commending the diverse preparations and nuanced flavor interplays that transform a consistent menu into an ever-surprising culinary adventure.

USS Nemo bolsters its culinary offerings with a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence-winning cellar. General manager and wine director Éric Blais orchestrates pairings that elevate the ocean-driven cuisine. He’ll recommend a crisp Sancerre pour to slice through the richness of miso-glazed sea bass or select a robust Burgundy that stands toe-to-toe with bold, blackened grouper. Along with the classics, Éric and fellow sommelier Piotr Lewandowski source lesser-known styles to excite wine geeks, like effervescent Txakolina from Spain’s Basque region and Uruguayan albariño with a bright, seafood-friendly acidity. 

As Naples’ food scene continues to evolve, one thing seems certain: Long after the next wave of trendy openings, USS Nemo will still be here serving impeccable seafood and creating lasting memories. “I bring out-of-town guests [to Nemo] regularly,” Kathleen, of Artis—Naples, says. “The strip mall location hides  a fantastic culinary experience. [Everyone I bring there] loves the meal, and without fail, they ask to return on their next visit.”